When we talked about this, we briefly discussed the types of devices. There is a wide range of types and types of electrical outlets, but living conditions plug-in models are most often used. Next, we will tell you what types of products there are in Russia and other countries of the world.

Type of connectors

The most basic difference between the types of products is how the connectors for connecting the electrical plug are arranged. The fact is that each state has its own connector standards. You can clearly see the types of sockets in all countries of the world in the photo below:

Description of each type:

• A - American. In addition to the USA, this version is used in Japan. There is no ground contact.
• B – American model, with grounding.
• C – European standard. The Euro socket is used not only in European countries, but also in the CIS, including Russia. The only drawback of this variety is the lack of grounding. However, it should be noted that there is no grounding contact on Soviet C5 models, but it is present in the Euro version of C6.
• D - this type of electrical sockets can be found in Britain.
• E – French standard.
• F – Euro socket with grounding. A modern type of execution, which is most often used in European countries, as well as the CIS.
• G – English version.
• H – Israeli.
• I – Australian.
• J – Swiss.
• K – Danish.
• I - the original type of execution, which is used in Italy.
• M – South Africa.

So you found out what kind of sockets there are in different countries peace. Next, we will dwell in more detail on the types of electrical plug products type C and F.

Specifications

As you already know, the operating voltage in the network can be 220-240 or 380 Volts; in America and Japan it is customary to use a voltage of 100-127 Volts. 220 V Euro sockets are used to connect electrical appliances with a power of no more than 3.5 kW. This is due to the fact that power sockets can withstand a current not exceeding 16A. It is permissible to connect a TV, refrigerator and other not very powerful household appliances to these types of electrical accessories.

Industrial three-phase sockets are designed for a current of 32 A and therefore are used in everyday life to connect powerful equipment.

Electrical sockets are also designed for an alternating current frequency of 50 or 60 Hz. In Russia and the CIS countries, the first type of execution is used.

type of instalation

The next type of electrical sockets is the housing version. There are overhead products that are used for and recessed ones - for installing wiring in a hidden way.

The latter type, in turn, can be mounted not only on the wall, but even on the floor or countertop in the kitchen. Floor-standing household devices for connecting equipment look like this:

A separate type of electrical outlets is portable. A very convenient option, however, it has not yet gained much popularity in Russia.

Additional functions

Also, electrical outlets can be divided into types depending on additional functions which they possess. For example:

1. Waterproof. Euro sockets from 44 and higher have a cover that will protect the connectors from water ingress. This type of socket is most often used in bathrooms.
   
2. Model C - cuts off power when a dangerous electrical leak is detected.
3. Model with timer. Using this type of electrical accessories, you can simply set the time after which the power will turn off. Very convenient for connecting heaters that do not have their own shutdown timer.
   
4. Power socket with wattmeter. An original solution that allows you to see how much electricity a connected device consumes. The indication changes depending on the power consumption: blue is the minimum power consumption, red is the maximum.
   
5. With fork ejector. If you often do this, we recommend choosing a special model with an ejector that will help you carefully pull the electrical plug out of the sockets.
   
6. Euro socket with backlight. This type of product is very convenient because in the dark you can easily find where to connect Charger from a phone or other device.
7. Model with USB output. An excellent solution for recharging mobile devices.
   
8. GSM and

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We don't think about something as mundane as an electrical outlet until we go on a trip. And there, just like at home, we have to regularly charge our smartphone or use a hairdryer.

website I found out why not in all countries our gadgets and household appliances are compatible with local networks.

As electrical networks have evolved, many different types of outlets have appeared around the world. Were under construction different kinds electric generators, which also influenced the design of the connectors. Companies that installed electrical networks also supplied devices suitable for these networks - each company had its own.

Some of the sockets created at that time (in a modernized form) are still in use today, while others were decided to be abandoned for safety reasons. But there is still no single standard for all electrical networks in the world - in different parts Light voltage and current frequency may vary.

• Voltage 100–127 V at 60 Hz used by the USA, Canada, Japan, Mexico, Cuba, Jamaica, partially Brazil and other countries.
• Voltage 220–240 V with a frequency of 50 Hz used in most other countries, but even with the same parameters, the type of sockets can vary greatly.

In total, there are 12 main types of sockets in the world (according to another classification - 15). Here short description some of them.

Types A and B - American socket

Type B differs from A by the presence of a third hole - it is intended for a grounding pin. Such sockets, as you can guess from the name, were invented in the USA and are widespread in North, Central and partly South America, as well as Japan and some other countries.

Types C and F - European socket

Just like A and B, types C and F differ from each other only in the presence of grounding - F has it. The European socket is used in most EU countries, as well as in Russia and the CIS, Algeria, Egypt and many other countries.

Type G - British socket

In the UK, the socket has three flat holes, and this design appeared for a reason. The fact is that during World War II the country experienced a copper shortage. Therefore, a plug with a short copper fuse and three pins was developed. In addition to Great Britain, the same socket is used in Cyprus, Malta, Singapore and other countries that were influenced by the British Empire.

One of components power supply systems - electrical outlet. These devices are found in every house, apartment, and every factory. They are even on the street. However, the modern range of sockets is so wide that it is better to know the main nuances before choosing.

A conventional electrical outlet consists of a plastic front panel and a dielectric base (heat-resistant plastic or ceramic) with contacts and connectors for connecting plug plugs. The plastic base is cheaper and more durable, ceramics are more expensive and more fragile. The number of contacts and their shape depends on the type of electrical outlet (single-phase or three-phase, with or without grounding) and the country in which it is used.

Contact materials

Electrical contacts can be made from several different materials:

• brass (for rooms with normal humidity levels);
• tinned brass (for high humidity);
• bronze (for any operating conditions).

The most capricious are brass contacts without sputtering. The color of the metal is light yellow with a pronounced shine. In conditions of high humidity, they quickly oxidize, which leads to poor contact. Also, brass does not spring well, which is why the contact weakens over time. To eliminate this drawback, an electrical socket with brass contacts has additional spring petals that press the contact plates.

The base can be ceramic or plastic, the contacts can be brass and brass with sputtering, bronze

Tinned brass has a matte white color. Due to the protective coating, it oxidizes less, springs better and holds its shape. Such contacts are usually installed in electrical outlets intended for wet rooms and outdoors.

Electrical sockets with bronze contacts are rare, and they can be distinguished at a high price. Bronze contacts are also yellow, but matte and darker. Bronze contacts spring well and provide high-quality contact for a long time.

Ground contact

In addition to phase contacts, the socket may have a grounding contact. It is required when connecting:

• powerful technology;
• equipment that is demanding on the quality of power supply (electronically controlled);
• equipment in the operating cycle of which water is used (for example, and).

In addition, electrical outlets with grounding must be installed in rooms with high humidity; outdoors - this is an electrical safety requirement. Having someone working means your and your family’s safety.

Sockets without grounding are permissible only in dry rooms, and simple devices such as table lamps, low-power oil heaters, convectors, etc. They are attractive due to their slightly lower price and smaller “depth,” which means that during installation you need to make smaller holes for them. But, no matter how attractive they may be, computers and complex equipment that consume little electricity but are demanding on the quality of power supply must be plugged into grounded sockets. In addition to protecting against electric shock, grounding also removes static, which can be fatal to electronics.

Connecting wires

Wires are connected to the contact plates using screws or screwless clamps (clamping contacts allow for quick connection without using a screwdriver).

Screw connections of sockets can be divided into two types:

1. With the ability to fasten the end of the wire in the form of a loop. Provides an ideal screw connection, so large is the area of ​​contact between the conductor and the contact pad.
2. With the possibility of fastening only the straight end.

When installing sockets of the first type, it will take more time, since you need to make a loop (it is convenient to use pliers), completely unscrew the screws to put it on, and then twist the knot. With sockets of the second type, everything is simple - insert the stripped wire into the contact, and then tighten the screw with a screwdriver.

When using sockets, the contacts undergo a heating/cooling process, which leads to a gradual weakening of the screw contact. For this reason, screws must be tightened once every six months.

Electrical sockets with clamping fixation of conductors allow you to connect as quickly as possible. The stripped end of the wire is inserted into the socket until it stops. The socket has a spring-loaded clamp (spring-loaded contact) that clamps the conductor securely. Due to the elastic force of the spring, contact always remains good. Such terminals are also called automatic.

Leading world leaders (Legrand, Schneider-Electric, Simon and others) produce sockets and switches with both screw and screwless connections. By purchasing products from well-known brands, you can be confident that the screwless connection will ensure proper contact.

Since in modern homes sockets are often combined into blocks, for parallel connections a separate input of wires is provided - separate holes are provided for jumpers.

Classification of electrical outlets

Even such a simple device as an electrical outlet has many types and varieties. In addition to different materials, they can have different shapes and installation methods. There are models that are assembled into blocks of several pieces, equipped with a switch or other types of sockets. Let's talk about all these types of electrical outlets now.

By voltage and current

Electrical sockets are electrical installation products and they have their own technical characteristics: the voltage for which they are intended and the current that they can pass through for a long time. In terms of voltage they can be:

• For single-phase networks with a voltage of 220-240 V. The most common type in our country.
• For three-phase networks 380 V.
• For single-phase networks with a voltage of 100-127 V. These are the standards that are used in Japan and the USA.

In our country, most single-phase sockets are installed for 220 V networks, but they also come in different types: they can pass current of different magnitudes through themselves. Conventional sockets are designed for a current of 10-16 A. To connect high-power household devices (electric stoves, hobs, storage boilers, etc.) you need sockets that can pass a current of 32 A, and sometimes more. For these cases, power electrical sockets are produced. They are large in size, use heat-resistant materials and more powerful contacts.

By installation type

The electrical outlet can be for hidden or open installation. They also say - internal/built-in and external/overhead. A flush-mounted electrical socket (internal) is installed in a hole specially made for it in a wall or other surface. After connection, the front panel is flush with the surface or protrudes just a couple of millimeters.

An electrical outlet for surface mounting (outdoor/surface) is attached to the wall or a special dielectric substrate, which is used if the base is flammable. Installation of such products is simpler, but the appearance is specific. Currently they are mainly used in . Sometimes overhead sockets can be seen in technical rooms, change houses, and garages. In those rooms where strict requirements for appearance are practically not imposed.

There are also retractable sockets that are successfully used in the kitchen. They can be built into the countertop, the bottom of a wall cabinet, the side of cabinet furniture, and even into the floor. Electrical sockets built into furniture are convenient and functional. You need to turn on a household appliance or device - open/lift the lid, sockets appear. There is no need, the lid is closed.

IP degree of protection

Electrical sockets also have such a technical characteristic as IP protection degree ( International Protection Marking. Translated from English - “international security codes”). It shows how protected the product is from moisture and dust. Electrical sockets can be designed for different operating conditions; accordingly, they are produced in housings with different degrees of protection. The most common types are:

• with protection class IP 20. For rooms with normal conditions, with heating running in the cold season.
• IP 21, IP22. They can be installed in rooms without heating, or outdoors under canopies.
• IP43, IP44. In rooms with high humidity, near water sources (waterproof sockets).
• IP 54, IP 55. Can be placed outdoors in the open air.

It is unlikely that you will be able to find sockets with a higher degree of protection in ordinary stores, but these also meet all the requirements for an apartment or private house.

The IP degree of protection is indicated in the technical specifications, and the scope of application is indicated in the description

An electrical outlet for outdoor installation may also be equipped with a protective cover that protects the contacts from dust getting inside. Such products can be installed in swimming pools, bathhouses and other rooms with high humidity.

By the number of slots in one housing

A different number of sockets can be placed in one housing. If there are two or more sockets, such products are called socket blocks. They can also have built-in switches or sockets of other types - for connecting the Internet, for example, a USB cable, etc.

The following socket options are often found:

In modern new buildings, they use blocks consisting of several single internal sockets, which are given integrity using a common frame. As a rule, each socket is installed in its own round socket box.

To install socket blocks, universal rectangular socket boxes can be used, which in many cases is more convenient than using round socket boxes.

Electrical outlets with additional options

There are electrical outlets in every home, office, and workplace. They are even found in outbuildings and free-standing toilets. And it is not surprising that manufacturers are trying to diversify their range. There are some very interesting options.

There are sockets with lighting - LEDs light up when the plug is connected, and there are also ones with funny faces

With power monitoring functions

At major renovation wiring or when laying new networks, lines are laid according to modern requirements - through circuit breakers, with the installation of RCDs, stabilizers, etc. on the necessary lines. But there are many homes in which the wiring is several decades old. It is quite functional, but the only means of protection and control are a couple of plugs or automatic machines at the entrance to the house/apartment. Safety problems can be solved, at least for the most sensitive and expensive devices, by installing an electrical outlet with voltage control or an RCD.

Electrical socket with built-in RCD. Powerful Appliances must be included in dedicated lines on which there must be circuit breakers and RCDs. If there is nowhere to install them in the panel, you can install an electrical outlet with an RCD. When a leakage current appears in the line or on a connected device (occurs due to an insulation breakdown or if someone touches exposed live wires), the protection will operate and the RCD will turn off the power.

With overvoltage protection. Our networks often experience power surges. If there is no general or local voltage stabilizer, and the equipment connected to the outlet will be sensitive to the quality of the power supply and expensive, you can install an outlet with surge protection. If the threshold voltage is exceeded (different models have different thresholds, but usually it is 275 V), the power is turned off.

Sockets with surge protection relays are a useful feature for sensitive equipment

With increased ease of use

“Advanced” models of electrical outlets provide additional features that can solve many problems.

With timer. Convenient thing. You turn on some device, set the time after which it needs to be turned off and that’s it. At the right moment, a special mechanism will open the contact and the device will turn off.

Electrical sockets with timer - mechanical and electronic

The simplest sockets are with a mechanical timer (pictured above on the left), but there are also electronic ones. And the electronic one can also be programmable, in which you can set a schedule for turning on and off.

With extension. We often encounter the need to use an extension cord. You can use a regular one, but there are sockets with a built-in extension cord. Of course, you need a large cavity in the wall for them, but you will never lose such an extension cord, i.e. the storage problem is solved. When folded, the cord is wound onto a drum hidden in the wall, and the socket is used as usual. You need an extension cord - just pull it, if not - pull it a little towards you and the wire will rewind.

In addition to regular extension cords, there are models with an extension cord and a tee. One socket remains on the wall, two are moved on a cord. It's also a convenient thing.

Childproof

There are two types of childproof electrical outlets. In one, the holes into which the fork is inserted are closed with protective curtains, which are retracted only if pressure is applied to both curtains at the same time. Moreover, you need to press with a certain amount of force, which a small child is simply not able to develop. An electrical outlet with protective curtains is not much more expensive than a regular one, but is reliable protection against children.

Electrical outlet with child protection - you can use more than just plugs

The second type of child-resistant electrical outlets is with rotating curtains. To insert a plug into such a socket, you need to pry the curtains with the pins of the plug and turn them to a certain angle. Then the holes in which the contacts are located will open.

Design features

Electronics and electronic devices are increasingly becoming part of our everyday lives. Probably everyone has already heard about the “smart home” system. But probably few people know that there are electrical sockets that can be controlled from a mobile phone. Using a smart socket, you can, for example, remotely turn on and off an electric fireplace in your country house. You can also turn off the iron if you accidentally left it on when leaving home.

There are other, not so exotic models.

With USB port (connector). We already have so many electronic devices that need recharging that it is necessary to organize separate socket blocks for them or install USB hubs. Another option is to install an outlet with a USB port/connector or several. In one building there can be from one to four or five.

Combined with a switch. Not only several sockets, but also switches can be installed in one housing. Since the installation height of switches has recently been low - at the level of the lowered hand (85-95 cm from the floor), sockets there are quite appropriate. And through such models you can turn on the lamps. For example, wall sconces or lamps on bedside tables. It will be convenient to turn the lighting on/off, and there will also be somewhere to connect the charger.

With lids. There are also sockets with protective covers. They are often placed outdoors or in a dusty room to prevent dust and dirt from settling on the contacts. Most often they are found with lift-up lids, which are raised when you need to turn on the device - the lid remains raised until you pull out the cord. The lid itself may or may not be transparent.

There are rotary models in which the lid opens to the side, like a door (in the figure above on the right). And it opens only to insert a plug. Then the lid can be closed, since there is a special recess for the cord. Such “draconian” measures are needed for places with very dusty production.

Not only do household networks have different voltages in different countries, but in many of them the sockets have a special shape. Before your trip, you need to find out what type of socket is in the country in order to buy the appropriate adapter. Of course, they are there, but in an unfamiliar place it can be difficult to find.

In many European countries, the sockets used are the same as ours, but almost everywhere they are with protective grounding. European standard sockets are used in the following countries:

• Germany;
• Spain;
• Czech Republic;
• Poland;
• Bulgaria;
• Belgium;
• Hungary;
• Lithuania;
• Latvia;
• Slovenia;
• Sweden.

There is no news here: the plug and socket are familiar to us, no adapters are needed. In other European countries, electrical installation products have their own standards. But in stores you can find adapters to the European standard, and in modern buildings two types of sockets are often installed, since appliances with plugs of both types are used.

In some European Union countries, electrical sockets of a different type are installed. Basically, they have three plugs in the plugs, respectively, three holes in the sockets. The plug to which the protective grounding is connected can be of the same shape as the phase ones, or have a different cross-section. In Italy, plugs have three plugs (phase, neutral and ground) - they have the same size and shape and are located in one line close to each other, the “ground” plug is the middle one. This type of sockets and plugs is called type L.

In Switzerland there are also three round plugs, but the middle ground one is located lower and all three contacts form a triangle - this is the N type socket.

The picture is similar in India, but the grounding contact has a larger cross-section and is located slightly lower than in Swiss sockets - the triangle turns out to be equilateral (type K).

In the USA, Canada, the Philippines, Thailand and Japan, the plugs have rectangular pins for phase wires and semicircular pins for connecting protective grounding. They are located at the vertices of the triangle. In the UK, the pins are also rectangular, but they are thicker and have a different orientation in space (type G). Rectangular but thinner pins in Australia, New Zealand and China. The sockets there are the same, type I.

If you are primarily interested in quality, then we advise you to pay attention to the products of leading European brands:

• Legrand (France);
• Schneider-Electric (France);
• Simon (Spain);
• Merten (Germany);
• GIRA (Germany);
• ABB (Germany);
• FEDE (Spain);
• Bticino (Italy);
• JUNG (Germany);
• ELSO (Germany);
• Vimar (Italy).

Particularly popular in Russia are sockets and switches from the French company Legrand, and specifically the Valena series - quality at a reasonable price. Schneider-Electric's popular Grossa and Unica series are popular.

October 30th, 2017 , 06:58 am

In Europe, the voltage in the electrical network varies from 220 to 240 V, in the USA and Japan - from 100 to 120 V - why? Is it really just to create problems for tourists who are forced to carry adapters with them or look for it upon arrival, so as not to let the phone “die”?
When it comes to electricity, globalization can be forgotten. Even in the European Union, where there is one currency, there are different electrical outlets. The reason for this is the historical factor.

In the era of electrification, inventors from different countries offered their own versions of optimal sockets; Different types of power generators were built all over the world. And national companies involved in the installation of electrical networks supplied their devices suitable for these networks. Accordingly, different types of plug connectors and sockets were introduced and their own networks were designed. The developments of other countries were completely ignored.

Influenced the development of sockets and the availability of materials. For example, during World War II, Britain came up with a three-prong plug with a short copper fuse. This design made it possible to save copper reserves for military needs.

Now, according to one classification, there are 12 types of sockets, according to another - 15. Moreover, sockets of one type sometimes accept plugs of another. However, if you find out that the country you are going to has the same type of socket as at home, don’t rush to rejoice! This is only half the problem. Voltage and frequency may vary in different parts of the world.

Classification of types of sockets and plugs in different countries of the world

The two most common standards are: European - 220-240 V at a frequency of 50 Hz and American - 100-127 V at a frequency of 60 Hz. You should not check what will happen if an electrical appliance operating on 100-127 V is plugged into an outlet with 220-240 V.

In some countries you should keep your ears open. For example, in most areas of Brazil, 127 V is used, but in the north of the country 220 V is found. And in Japan, the voltage is the same everywhere - 110 V, but the frequency is different: in the east 50 Hz is used, in the west - 60 Hz. The reason is simple: first, German-made generators with a frequency of 50 Hz were purchased for Tokyo, and soon after that American ones with a frequency of 60 Hz were supplied to Osaka.

Perhaps someday a single standard will be adopted. A universal socket for all types of plugs has already been developed. But for now it’s up to everyone to install it or not. In addition, we first need to come to a unified voltage standard. And this comes down to huge financial costs for the refurbishment and re-equipment of transformer substations, replacement of sockets and plugs.

Something on the topic of sockets and their use from my own experience

Electrical appliances today are the main tools in everyday life (and not only), which have certain characteristics of power consumption, current and voltage.

Based on these parameters, they plan a particular power network, selecting their elements: solid or stranded conductors (wires), as well as various types of sockets, which, in fact, will be discussed in this article.

So, a socket is an element of an electrical network through which a detachable connection (connection) of an electrical device to a power source is made - the electrical network. Different countries apply different standards, and accordingly the design and other parameters vary somewhat.

However, in order to successfully make a choice, to find out how to choose the right outlet, you should be guided by the following basic data:

• total power of devices connected to the outlet;
• type of plug connected to the socket of an electrical appliance;
• location and humidity and temperature conditions of the room;
• appropriate type of design and method of installation of the socket;
• the need for a built-in electronic component.

It is clear that you need to focus on the power of the device so that the outlet, designed for a lower consumer power, does not overheat. You should also pay attention to what kind of plug the device has, because Soviet standards are still used, which are not compatible. In addition, sockets are classified according to the tightness of the housing and other parameters, which we will consider below.

Types of sockets according to the power of connected consumers

The total wattage of the appliances connected to the outlet is a key aspect of outlet selection.

Ideally, each appliance should have one outlet and wiring line, but sometimes there is an unplanned need to connect two or more appliances to one outlet through a special electrical coupler.

There is a formula by which you can find out which sockets to choose for a particular device (with a substantial margin, preferably), based on its power consumption, which is measured in Watts (denoted by the letter W or Russian V):

That is, the current measured in amperes (A) is equal to the power of the device (W, Watt) divided by the voltage (V, Volt). The fact is that circuit breakers and sockets are selected according to current strength, and only power consumption is mentioned on devices, so it is necessary to convert the values ​​​​using this formula in order to compare them.

In practice, it looks like this: the electric stove has a power of 5 kilowatts, that is, 5000 watts and is designed for a voltage of 220 volts, respectively, 5000/220 = 22.7A. This means that the electrical outlet must be designed for at least this current strength.

Old, Soviet-style sockets were used with a power of 6A and 10A, while modern household sockets are designed for a maximum threshold of 16A; power sockets are a separate class (not related to household ones, but used in everyday life in a number of cases). Such power devices used in everyday life include an electrical outlet for an electric stove, which is designed for more than 16A - 25A and even more - 32A. However, most often high-power devices that require more than 25A are connected in a permanent way, that is, directly with a power electrical cable.

Here we're talking about about the standards that are applied in post-Soviet territories and EU countries.

There are two main types, from which you can determine which sockets to choose for an apartment or house, focusing on the type of plug and the presence/absence of a grounding conductor.

They (types of sockets and plugs) are designated by letters, the most common and universal is the European type C without a grounding contact, the so-called “Europlug”, which is universal for the still common Soviet C1/C, as well as European ones with grounding - French E and German F.

You can clearly observe the most common types of sockets in different countries of the European Union and CIS countries in the table below.

The most common types of household sockets in the CIS and Europe

Type C "Europlug"		It is used in all CIS countries and most European countries. Full compatibility with forks types E,F and Soviet C1/B. Current strength – 6A, 10A, 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is no ground connection. Application – low and medium power household appliances that do not require grounding.
		Used in some European countries: France, Belgium, Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Tunisia and Morocco. Rarely in CIS countries. Fully compatible with type C (CEE 7/17) and E/F (EE 7/7) plugs. Current strength – 10A, 16A inclusive. Voltage – 250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is a ground contact. Application – medium power household appliances with grounding.
Type F "Schuko"		Used in most European countries (especially eastern ones), this German socket standard is widespread in the CIS market. Fully compatible with type C, E/F plugs; partially E (without contact of grounding contacts). Current strength is 16A (simple household) and 25A (power for electric stoves). Voltage 250V and 380V respectively, frequency – 50Hz.

Soviet standard sockets (C1/A) are similar to type C “Europlug”, but are designed for plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 mm, which makes it impossible to connect plugs of types E and F, as well as type C of modification CEE 7/17 (with a plug diameter of 4 .8 mm). Of modern plugs, Soviet sockets support only CEE 7/16 type C. To give you a clear idea of ​​what kind of plug these are, below is a table of their types, markings and capacities.

The most common types of household appliance plugs in the CIS and Europe

Soviet C1/B		Still produced and used in the CIS countries as an alternative to CEE 7/16 Europlug (generally a higher quality alternative). Current strength – 6A, 10A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Without grounding, compatible with European standards C, E, F modification without a round rim (or if the rim is broken off).
Pan-European CEE 7/16 (Europlug)		Most popular in Europe, with the exception of the countries: Cyprus, Malta, Ireland, United Kingdom. Used to power low-power devices without the need for grounding. Designed for a current of 2.5A, voltage 110-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Compatible with standards: C, C1, E, F.
Pan-European CEE 7/17		Used in the CIS and European countries, except those listed above. Application – nutrition household appliances low and medium power, which do not require a grounding circuit. Current strength – 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Compatible with C, E, F. Not compatible with Soviet C1.
European French E CEE 7/5		Consists of application in France, Belgium, Poland. Application – power supply of household appliances of small, medium and higher power that require grounding. Designed for current 16A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with type C and E sockets respectively.
European German F under "Schuko", CEE 7/4		Widely distributed in the CIS countries, as well as in European Germany, Austria, Sweden, Norway and Holland. Application – power supply of medium and high power household appliances that require grounding. Current strength is 16A, there are modifications of 25A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with socket type C and F respectively.
European Hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7		Widely distributed in the European Union and CIS countries. It has a grounding conductor compatible with that on sockets of type E, F. It is used to power household appliances of low, medium and high power. Power characteristics are equal to those of CEE 7/4 and CEE 7/5. Compatible with sockets types C, E, F.

This was a list of sockets and plugs of the types that are used in the CIS and Europe. A huge number of household appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, dishwashers, heaters, electric kettles, washing machines and similar energy-intensive devices with grounding are included in the kit, with a plug cord of a hybrid E/F CEE7/7 type.

Type F CEE 7/4 plugs are also widely used in such devices, but a French socket with a protruding ground pin will not fit. Therefore, for such devices, the types of electrical sockets of which are located respectively in the kitchen or bathroom and power such devices, type F “Schuko” is installed, since both types of plugs are suitable for them.

Particular attention should be paid to the room for which the outlet is selected. If this is a bathroom or a kitchen area close to water, then you need to select an appropriate waterproof outlet. The same applies to sockets located outside the house and in open gazebos.

In the rooms you can install an ordinary socket, but in the hallway, for example, where dust is brought from people with their outerwear, you should choose a dust-resistant socket. At the same time, the sockets have two protection factors from both influences and how to choose sockets based on them, let’s look at the markings of the sockets of which, by the way, there are two:

• IP marking;
• NEMA/UL marking.

IP marking is a set of characters made up of letters and numbers, for example IP30. The first combination of letters IP is an abbreviation for “International Perfection”, that is, “International Protection”, which indicates the degree of tightness of the case against the ingress of moisture and dust particles inside.

Next come the numbers, the first indicates the degree of protection from dust, chips and other solids, as well as touches. The second is an indicator of protection from water, that is, IP30 is a simple household socket with protection against solid particles of a certain size (see table below) and no protection from any influence of water. Let us present a table of decoding of these numerical values.

IP markings for protection against contact, large and small solids, and dust

Type of protection	digit X (IP X Y)	Degree of protection	What can it protect against?	Graphic symbol IP
	0	Without protection from anything	Will not protect against contact with anything
	1	Doesn't let through solids size 50 mm and larger	From large parts of the body, will not protect against finger contact
	2	Rejects solids 12.5 mm and larger	Protection against unconscious touching by hands, fingers and similar sized bodies
	3	Does not allow solid bodies 2.5 mm or larger to pass through	Protects against penetration by tools, cables, large wires and similar objects
	4	Does not pass solids 1.0 mm or larger	Perhaps it will protect against the penetration of needles of thin tweezers, most wires (if there are children)
	5	Partially sealed against dust	Completely protects against contact; the smallest dust (which does not interfere with operation) can penetrate inside
	6	Absolutely sealed against dust	Complete protection against any objects and any dust particles, even the finest

IP markings for protection against water influences of different intensity and angle

Type of protection	Digit Y (IPX Y)	Degree of protection	What can it protect against?	Graphic symbol IP
	0	Without protection from anything	Will not protect against the slightest moisture
	1	Protection against vertically falling drops	From short circuit through water in wet rooms in a given vertical position
	2	Protection against vertically falling drops, at a slight angle of up to 15 degrees	From short circuit through water acting at a given slope angle
	3	Protection against drops falling at an angle of up to 60 degrees	Protection against short circuit due to rain and splashing water directed at the appropriate degree
	4	Protection against splashes, regardless of the angle of impact	Protection against short circuit due to rain and splashing water, splashing at an angle from below
	5	Protection against jets, regardless of impact angle	Protection from electricity in areas exposed to showers and other medium-power water jets.
	6	Protection from frequent and increased exposure to water flows	Protection against short circuits in conditions of intensive washing, strong and constant jets of water, even sea waves
	7	Sealed when immersed in water up to 1 m deep for a short time	Protection against short circuit in conditions of snow cover, temporary drowning due to snow melting or rain
	8	Tightness when immersed in water to a depth exceeding 1 m	Full protection against short circuits during prolonged exposure to water, but without exposure to significant water pressure
	9	Sealed for unlimited immersion in water under pressure	Full underwater functionality, absolute protection against water ingress and short circuits due to it

Also, this marking may use a third digit, which indicates the shock resistance of the case, but this is not relevant in household sockets, so we will not consider it. There may also be letters after the digital value: H (indicates a high-voltage device), M (tested in working condition against water ingress), S (tested in inoperative condition against water ingress), W (with protective equipment additionally specified).

NEMA/UL marking represented by the abbreviation “NEMA” followed by one or two numbers, with or without a letter at the end, for example NEMA/UL 3R. These four letters stand for National Electrical Manufacturers Association; UL stands for Underwriters' Laboratories.

This marking also indicates that these outlet standards are used in the USA and are certified accordingly. In the CIS and many European countries, this standard is very rarely used, but it is worth considering. There is a table with which you can decipher what the marking on the socket means, and also compare it with IP, we will consider it further.

Nema standard markings

Nema	IP compliant	Application of the standard
1	IP20, IP30	It is used in domestic and administrative premises, has an appropriate level of protection against dirt, as well as unintentional touching and touching with fingers
2	IP21, IP31	Applicable in household premises where there is a chance of small amounts of water and dirt getting into the socket body
3	IP64	It is used outdoors, where temporary exposure to wind blowing fine dust, precipitation, and icing is possible.
3R	IP32, IP34	Can be used outdoors, withstands temporary exposure to precipitation, as well as icing
3S	IP64	It is used outdoors where there is precipitation, wet snow, dust and wind. Ice accumulation does not interfere with further operation.
4	IP56, IP65, IP66	It is used outdoors, near the road, where there is dirt, water sprayed from cars, and under similar loads.
4X		It is used outdoors, where there is aggressive precipitation, wind with dust and jets of water under high pressure; corrosion and ice resistance
6, 6P	IP65, IP66, IP67	Sealed housing designed to survive underwater for long periods of time and shallow depths
11		Not suitable for use in domestic premises or for premises with aggressive corrosive environments
12, 12K	IP52, IP65	It is used indoors and is resistant to contamination from dust, ingress of dirt and dripping non-corrosive liquids
13	IP54, IP65	Used indoors; resistance to contamination by dust, ingress of dirt, splashed oil, water, non-corrosive coolants

Occasionally you can see 125/250V power cords supplied with computer equipment (monitors, power supplies) with two flat parallel perforated or solid contacts and one round - these are cords with a NEMA 5-15 connector, designed for the corresponding outlet.

They are widespread in the USA, and it makes no sense to get an American standard socket for them in the CIS; it is better to separately purchase a cord at the other end with a CEE 7/4 connector for socket type F (Schuko) or a hybrid CEE 7/7 compatible with sockets of type E and F. You can also use an adapter, but the first option is best with almost equal financial costs.

There are other types of markings that indicate the strength of the housing, for example IK, accompanied by a digital value from 00 to 10, however, when choosing a household outlet this is not relevant and is not worth considering.

Types of sockets by design and installation method

When choosing a socket, it is important to take into account the material from which the walls of the room are made, since this determines which sockets are best to choose - for a hidden or open installation method.

You can learn more about the basics of installation using these methods in the article “”, but now let’s look at the purely constructive part.

In addition, sockets are distinguished by the number of modules, which determines the number of connections, and there is also a division according to the materials from which their core is made. Regarding the installation method, sockets can be divided into:

• invoices;
• built-in;
• portable.

In part, the installation method also dictates their design, which is manifested in the presence or absence of certain fasteners and mechanisms. Also, the design of the body itself differs, in general, let's look at it.

Overhead sockets used in cases where an open installation method is required.

For example, in the case of a wall made of logs in a wooden house, when in a solid log it is impossible according to the standards and fire safety make slots and mount electrical elements there.

Thus, the wires are laid along the surface of the wall and external electrical sockets are connected to them and mounted on a socket box that is pre-installed on the wall plane.

There is another type of overhead sockets that are mounted on baseboards if the wiring runs through them.

They do not look aesthetically pleasing, and are also considered less reliable and more often break when the plug is suddenly pulled out than built-in sockets, but in a log house the only alternative is portable sockets.

Built-in sockets used in the construction of walls made of reinforced concrete, brick, and blocks.

They are also mounted in hollow core panel partitions made of fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and plasterboard.

They are mounted in a special plastic mounting box, installed in advance in a hole made in the wall or partition.

The design of the socket core includes special spacer tabs that secure it (the core) inside the mounting box, adjusting the force of the expansion with special screws.

Thus, all the working elements and internal electrical cores of the socket are located in the thickness of the wall; only a restrictive metal (or plastic) frame protrudes outside, which is then hidden by the socket body.

Portable sockets can be found on sale as extension cords; they come complete with a cord with a plug (most often a hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7).

There are also many configurations available without a cord, which can easily be connected to an electrical cable outlet from a wall or baseboard, thus avoiding installation work using wall methods. However, such sockets are rarely used directly.

The housing is unscrewed into two halves using structural screws, the cable is clamped with a common clamp, and the contacts are clamped into clamp terminals. The design of such portable sockets can often include a power on/off button, as well as a power indicator, which makes them convenient.

It is worth noting that the photo shows a very interesting and intricate socket, which is classified according to the installation method as a stationary built-in one, but has a portable element - a socket for a plug on an extension wire.

Design and arrangement of a household electrical outlet

The design of a socket for concealed installation is considered the most complex, since it has additional fasteners that are used to install them.

They can also be with or without grounding, with grounding contacts of different shapes and conductor area/section.

As for the durability and reliability of the socket, this depends on the alloy from which the contacts are made, as well as the base material. A new type of electrical outlet used in modern everyday life consists of the following components:

• input contacts/terminals;
• output contacts;
• grounding contact (if any);
• insulator/base;
• frame.

Of course, the socket kit may contain additional elements, such as “curtains” (latches) or covers to prevent water from entering, various relays and other elements, but now we will consider a classic socket for installation in a hidden way without any bells and whistles.

Input pins , they are also terminals, are located at the end of the socket and are intended for connecting electrical neutral and phase conductors, as well as a grounding conductor.

There are two types of wire fastenings that a modern socket has, contacts and terminals: screw and screwless.

Screw connections secure the wire between two plates, fastened together with a screw that is manually tightened by an electrician.

Screwless ones have a spring element that presses the plates, keeping them constantly under pressure, pressed.

Screwless clamps are considered more reliable, since under the influence of vibrations from the frequency of the current, the contact does not become loose or weaken.

The material from which the input contact plates are made is brass and bronze. Brass contacts are considered short-lived and quickly deteriorate in high humidity, and they also get very hot and are poorly compatible with aluminum wiring.

Output contacts , that is, detachable into which the pins of the plug are connected, also called jaws, petals (but the socket with a grounding contact has a separately located conductor).

These detachable contacts consist of pairs of parallel plates with oval extensions at the point where the pin is connected. The old plates had special spring clamps that prevented them from deforming and weakening.

The materials for the manufacture of output contact plates are brass (tinned or uncoated) and bronze. Brass plates weaken over time and do not provide proper clamping of the plug pins, causing sparking and melting of the housing. Tinned brass is more resistant to increased moisture, conducts current better and heats up less.

Plates made from a modern composition - phosphor bronze, have a good coefficient of spring deformation, accordingly weaken less, and also heat up less and contribute to greater throughput. There are also silver-plated contacts, which have the best characteristics of current conductivity, reliability and durability.

Ground contact (PE yellow, yellow-green wire) is available in modern sockets; the most common in the CIS is a plug socket with a grounding contact, type F, in which this conductor is supplied in the form of a bracket that clasps the plug where it has grounding contacts.

From a technical point of view, there is nothing to describe, if we talk about standards and grounding devices, then there are the following main types: TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S.

When grounding TN-C, the grounding conductor is connected to the working neutral conductor because there is no separate grounding line.

If these conductors are combined in the socket, then if there is a current leak, a short circuit will occur, which, in theory, should trip the circuit breaker.

With the TN-S system, there is a cable in the house that is responsible for grounding, and it is connected to the grounding terminal of the socket. With TN-C-S, the common wire is also connected to the neutral and ground contact of the socket, but later it is disconnected to the ground and neutral conductor, respectively.

Insulator , also known as the dielectric component of the socket, is the very core of the socket with all the elements described above contained on it, fixed with rivets or screws.

This element, also referred to as the base of the socket, is the only one that does not allow current to pass through, besides the housing cover. The mounting spacer brackets can also be attached to the base.

Depending on the material from which they are made, there are sockets with a ceramic base and with a plastic base. The ceramic base is made from porcelain material and has the best resistance to high temperatures, but at the same time is more fragile than plastic bases for sockets. As for the plastic bases of the sockets, they are refractory, but are more susceptible to charring.

consists of a metal frame attached to the base. On the sides of this frame there can be spacer legs for fastening in the box.

On the front side, it is a restrictive metal rectangular frame that prevents the entire structure of the socket from being sunk deeper than it should be. The frame also provides support against the wall, thus making the entire supporting structure rigid.

The frame may have holes for additional fastening with self-tapping screws to the edge of the mounting box, as well as holes for latches of the plastic frame of the socket. The socket frame is mounted on top of it with a screw (in the center) or/and additionally with latches.

The socket frame can be solid or consist of a rim and a core, in which there are holes for power and grounding contacts, as well as a mounting screw in the center. In the second case, the core presses the frame against the metal frame pressed against the wall.

This configuration of the socket body is used if a double electrical socket is required, or even a triple-quadruple one, that is, paired using a separately purchased frame with the appropriate number of sections.

Cheap sockets use low-quality plastic, the frames of which become yellow within a couple of years or lose color in the case of colored plastic. Also, it (cheap plastic) chars, cracks and crumbles faster.

Types of sockets with built-in electronic components and additional components

In addition to standard sockets, which only have a socket for connecting a plug, there are sockets with built-in electronics, universal sockets for any type of plug, as well as sockets with special latches to protect children from electric shock and hermetically sealed lids for rooms with particularly high humidity. Let us next consider which sockets are appropriate to install in this or that case.

(residual current device) is wise to install in rooms where there is a high probability of electric shock, both directly and through the device connected to it.

The essence of the built-in residual current device is that it measures the current leakage that occurs in the event of an electric shock to a person or current leakage through water, through the device body through structural parts of the building, etc.

At the same moment when current leakage occurs, the relay that supplies the output contacts of the socket opens. The maximum that can happen is a slight electric shock or a tiny leak, but your health will not be affected, and the electrical system will remain intact.

Socket with built-in time controller (time relay) is useful in cases where it is necessary to turn off the device after a while, but there is no one to do it. For example, an air compressor for an aquarium, an electric heater, etc.

The element that controls the operating time and disconnection of the outlet from power can be mechanical or electronic.

A mechanical controller, as a rule, opens the contacts after loosening a pre-tensioned (by turning) spring element, a socket with a timer, in other words.

The electronic controller contains a microprocessor that acts on the territorial key, turning off the power, and can be programmed for complex time tasks, for a time schedule of repeated power on and off.

Today it is not common in its stationary varieties, but there is already a prototype developed by designer Muhyeon Kim.

In addition to the digital consumption indicator, it has a backlight, which, depending on consumption, changes colors in the palette from blue (at minimum consumption) to red (at maximum consumption).

The idea of ​​such an outlet is quite clear - to control the electricity consumption of the device connected to such an outlet. It can be a very useful device, for example, if you turned on a one and a half kW UFO heater and, in addition to monitoring the feeling of temperature, you can clearly see how much electricity is being consumed, based on this, look for a middle ground.

has a form of detachable contacts that will fit almost any type of plug and grounding contact.

In addition, many of them have a built-in USB charging adapter (in the one in the photo at the top, the lid opens to reveal USB connectors).

It is not widespread and is not particularly popular in the CIS, since the plug connector standards used are uniform and compatible with each other, and US standards are not used in everyday life.

As for protected sockets, there are two types: with “curtains” and with covers. The first are childproof sockets; they have protection in the form of flaps inside the lid; when pressed firmly with a fork, powerful spring elements bend and the curtains turn into the free space of the case. They are a protection against small children if they decide to poke a knitting needle or a screwdriver into the socket.

With covers, sockets do not pose a hindrance to children, therefore they are installed if there is no such threat and only in rooms with high humidity. There, depending on the tightness, there are different designs (with and without a seal).